Himalayan 100 Day 3 The Marathon

Day 3 - The Mt Everest Marathon (not to be confused with the 'other' Mt Everest Marathon in Nepal which goes to base camp and probably a bit harder!)

26 miles Sandakphu - Rimbik (via Phalut) - Out and back rolling for 18 miles at 3600m altitude, then final 8 miles descent 2000m

Facts:

1.  Running at altitude sucks. It makes you feel sick, gives you a headache and makes you cry. Have I mentioned that already?! well it does.

2.  It has never taken me 10 hours to run a marathon before. 

3.  The red pandas might well be in abundance in this area, but they were certainly hiding from us today. 

4.  Descending 2000m over 8 miles makes your quads hurt.

5.  26 miles in 'Mr Pandey miles' is actually more like 28 miles.

6.  The Mt Everest Marathon is the most epic, painful and overwhelming thing I've done. It's up there with childbirth. 

Marathon day. The longest stage of the event and the 'big one' according to everyone who's ever done it before. 

Up at 5.15 for a 6am start. We'd been warned not to take part today if we thought we might not be back before dark, and to pack head torches as a precaution. That would mean the slowest runners would be taking 12 hours or more to finish.. ummm. Right then.

I hadn't managed any breakfast as I was feeling so nauseous due to the altitude and frankly I was desperate to get back down to some decent oxygen. 

There was a more serious tone to the startline this morning. It was chilly - around -1 degree and there was a ground frost. Anticipation hung in the air and nerves were jangling. We all knew it was going to be a tough day on the trail. 

We followed the same route as yesterday out to Molle for the first stage of the race. Which on one hand was breathtakingly amazing, as the views of the mountains seemed even more spectacular this morning than they were yesterday.  But on the other hand, was utterly miserable as we knew exactly what lay ahead.  Feeling sick from the start I kept bursting into tears. I was tired and everything hurt. I could barely shuffle and the lack of air made every slope feel like a mountain - it was just so hard. 

The one regret I've got about this trip, was that my hubby wasn't there with me. Having shared experiences is what we're about and I just wished he'd been there to see the mountains and share in my pain and triumph. That morning I really could have done with his support.

But I was here alone and had to toughen up and get on with it. Luckily by now Richard (the Geordie dairy farmer), Zoe (former rower from Bristol) and Karen (nursery school teacher from NZ) and I were a merry band and we stuck together the whole day. Without them I don't think I'd have made it. 

We soon reached Molle and headed out to Phalut. This section of the route was an amazing ridge running above the plantations and forest. Still very challenging with lots of climbing. Mt Everest and Kanchenjunga mountains were now long gone. With a touch of the Cumbrian Lake District about the terrain, it was now very different to the majesty of the mountains, but still awe inspiringly beautiful. Cue more photos and more tears. This was turning into one hell of an emotional journey. 

Back to Molle at 18 miles and suddenly the track dropped into the jungle and started to descend rapidly. The terrain changed dramatically and we continued to drop through military check points and small villages. It just kept going down and down and got more and more rugged, with lots of clambering and using our hands to climb through ridges. 

The checkpoints throughout the whole event were incredibly well organised and offered biscuits, water, bananas and cold, salty boiled potatoes. And they were there every couple of miles through the whole race. Amazing. Yesterday the potatoes made me gag, but today I must have been desperate as I devoured cold, salty potatoes like they were the last food on Earth. 

Onwards and more descending and by now the temperatures had risen to around 28 degrees and the heat of the sun was burning. A sharp contrast to the minus 1 on the start. Suncream came out and we were beginning to feel more than a bit dehydrated. 

The scenery was now a mix of forest, jungle and tea plantations. Just beautiful. Mr Pandey had warned us that this section was very remote. We clambered through the undergrowth and deep ravines following the red arrows marked onto the ground by one of Mr Pandeys' team at around 3am that morning.  

On and on it went and then gradually we came upon civilisation. Small and immaculate houses where cows and goats wandered freely. Cockerels crowing and children laughing and running around on their way home from school. Brightly coloured houses one after another, some with flags, some with chickens, but all immaculate and adorned with flowers.

We'd been thrown into the depths of rural India and it was incredibly beautiful, serene and peaceful. The simplicity and happiness of the people who live there was obvious for all to see and quite humbling. Cue more tears.

The route continued down and through the village. By now our quads were screaming - we'd been going 8 hours (yes you read that right! 8 hours) and we were all hot and exhausted. We asked the checkpoint how much further and he said 5 miles. What?!?!  We'd been at the 20 mile point about 2 hours ago. Surely that wasn't right? but the next checkpoint confirmed it and we trudged on willing it to end.

We were now in a village called Rimbik and the hills and tea plantations rose above us. We'd dropped right down, there was oxygen in the air and the nausea and headache disappeared. If we hadn't been so wrecked we'd have been able to pick up the pace and push onto the finish, but it was all we could do to put one foot in front of the other and occasionally break into a little shuffle.

We crossed the famous wobbly wooden Shrikola Bridge - feeling a bit like a scene in Indiana Jones movie - and pressed on. 

This is a really stunning part of India and one I'd love to return to with my family. Whether you want to trek, mountain bike or just hunt the elusive Red Panda (not literally of course), I highly recommend it. http://travel.india.com/singalila-national-park/

Now on the road, we were able to shuffle slightly more quickly, but every single part of our bodies ached. I was hallucinating about salty chips and pizza and couldn't think about any thing else other than lying down.

Eventually the finish line was there. More cheering from the others (some of them had been back for hours). It had taken us 10 hours to complete what turned out to be more like 28 miles and there were still a few others out on the route. It was without question, the most epic and exhausting day of my life. 

The Sherpa Tenzing Guest house in Rimbik was our home for the night. A trickle of a warm shower proved to be heavenly and after an amazing meal of rice, pasta, nepalese bread, chicken, dal and an seriously good folded apple pie (no chips or pizza though!) served by Sherpa Himal (who couldn't do enough for us) I finally got to lie down and crashed out (after about 5 minutes of foam rolling and trigger ball work - yes I'm that committed) wondering how the hell I was going to walk tomorrow, let alone run...

My top products of the day:

1. LED Lenser SEO 7R Headtorch - Amazing bright light and thankfully even though I didn't actually need it during the marathon (although it would have easily been up to the job), but had been very handy at night up in Sandakphu. 

2. Rocktape Kinesiology Tape - Had it not been for my kinesiology tape I don't think I'd have made it. My hip and foot were both taped up and it worked wonders.

3.  Trigger Point Therapy Ball - This was probably the most important item I took with me. Released my hurty hip each night and worked wonders on my Glutes. I don't leave home without it.. just ask any of my clients!

  

Himalayan 100 - Race Day 2

Kanchenjunga

Sandakphu - Molle 20 miles

Out and back rolling route all at 12,000ft

Facts:  

1. It's impossible to sleep at altitude. It's cold, you can't breathe properly, you feel sick and your heart rate hammers about 20 bpm higher than normal 

2. I LOVE the food here.. they make the BEST porridge 

3. The early morning view of sunlight on Mt Everest and Kanchnejunga is quite possibly the most incredible thing I have every seen. A sight I will never, ever forget 

4. Altitude causes a colostomy bag to blow up with air... which is VERY annoying. And don't even get me started on the logistics of trying to use a squat loo whilst wearing compression tights.. I'll leave that one right there.

5. I do not like running at altitude. FACT.

Race Day 2

After a fitful nights sleep, we were up at 4.45am (again) to catch the early morning views of the mountains. Walking out of the lodge at dawn to a ground frost and seeing first light on Mt Everest for the first time in my life was an epic 'once in a lifetime' moment. Everyone was milling around, taking pictures with whispered gasps of 'oh wow!' and the feeling was of peace and awe. Utterly stunning.  The 5 highest mountains in the World are Mt Everest, followed by K2, then Kanchenjunga (in India), then Makalu and Lhotse (both in Nepal).  From where we were staying in Sandakphu, you can see all of them apart from K2. Quite literally breathtaking.  

L-R  Lhotse, Mt Everest, Makalu (closest and highest looking)

First light on Kanchenjunga

Lhotse, Mt Everest (directly behind flag) and Makalu

After we'd all recovered from the spectacle, taken our pictures and got ourselves fed and hydrated, we remembered that we had more running to do today! we weren't just here for the views after all... 

Todays' route was supposedly the 'flat' route (compared to yesterday anyway) - just 20 miles and out back to Molle - simple. But as soon as we got going I realised that it was going to be harder than we thought. The terrain was seriously rocky with totally un-runnable sections. There were some short super steep hills and it was a roller coaster of up and down the whole way.  But the altitude was the biggest problem. At 3660m, it was high enough to feel breathless, nauseous and headachy, but not enough to cause serious illness. Just high enough to be annoying and slow you down. I felt tired, emotional and struggled from the start. In sharp contrast to my run yesterday where I'd felt so strong.

Still with my 'beardy friend' Simon from South Africa, we ran the whole way together and hooked up with 'Geordie Richard' and rower Zoe from Bristol. The amazing views and fantastic company soon took our minds off the nausea, tiredness and breathlessness. We'd started the run at -1 degrees and now the sun was out it was about 25 degrees and I was feeling burnt which wasn't adding to my comfort level.



The route goes through pine forest and along a beautiful trail ridge with Mt Everest on one side and Kanchenjunga on the other and with views of the tea plantations down in the valley. It's hard to describe, but quite probably the most stunning thing I've ever seen. I probably added an hour to my time jut by stopping to admire the amazing views and take more photos. Any excuse for a rest!

Geordie Richard :-)

The route was only 10 miles out and then turn around and run back (so 20 in total), but it felt much, much further. The effect of no sleep, altitude and having done 24 miles the previous day I guess...  As the route was 'out and back', it wasn't long before the leaders came flying past on their return leg. Lots of 'high fives' and hugs as they shot past! They made it look so easy. How is that even possible?! I'd given Washington DC David some treatment on his knees the night before (including using a SIGG water bottle as a foam roller) and he gave me a huge kiss as he flew past.. 'you're an angel!' he exclaimed. I guess his knees were feeling better. Which was more than could be said for my hip which was beginning to niggle.

It wasn't long before the mist rolled in and the views disappeared. All I could think of now was finishing this thing and having a lie down - and I was beginning to hallucinate about pizza. I managed a final strong push to the finish along with Zoe and Simon. Quick bowl of soup (no Pizza!), into warm clothes (it's amazing how quickly the temperature drops) and then we were summoned to a 'pre-marathon' briefing with Mr Pandey and gang - tomorrow sounded scary.

The 'Mt Everest Marathon' is on day 3 and part of the overall 100 mile stage event, but can be done as a 'stand alone' event if you wish. Some of the walkers were also planning to take part and one guy had flown in from El Salvador just for the marathon. And Adam was also planning to swap his seat in the jeep, take a break from behind the lens just to run this stage - he decided it was too beautiful not to. Whilst the trip and event is marketed as the 'Himalayan 100', it's far more flexible than it sounds. You can just participate in the marathon or come along as a walker. It's possible to run one day, then walk the next or just take a rest in the jeep. Although of course for most people, the challenge of completing the 100 miles is the goal, the flexibility and possibility of just doing sections, makes it far more 'doable' and opens it up to a wide range of abilities.

The marathon sounded tough and we'd been warned not to attempt it if we weren't feeling good or if we thought we might not be back by dark!!! (what!? we were starting at 5am).  The route goes out to Molle (which is where we'd just been), onward to a place called Phalut, then back to Molle and drop down into Rimbik. I'd calculated that the route dropped 2000m over 8.5 miles. Bloody hell.. think we'll need abseiling equipment!!

Anyway.. after the briefing we were treated to more delicious food, then back to the lodge for some more foam rolling with the mice, bag packing and a night of no sleep. Tomorrow was the big day. The marathon lay ahead. Given how I'd felt today, now I was really scared...

TOP PRODUCT PICKS FROM THE DAY:

1. Sweaty Betty Long Sleeve Run Top. A fantastic technical fabric, lightweight and flattering. Breathable and really comfortable. Great for layering, popping on when the temperature dropped and easy to squish into my backpack. My favourite running top of the trip.

2.  CEP Run 2.0 compression socks. I wore a pair every day. Helped keep my calves in one piece and aided with recovery. Can't run without them and have an addiction to pink ones!

3. SOS rehydrate. The BEST hydration drink on the market in my opinion. Higher in electrolytes than any other drink, it's classified as a medical level oral rehydration solution. Tastes great, not too sticky and sweet and impressed the Dr and Gastroenterologist on the trip.. perfect for this sort of event where you need high levels of fluid and electrolytes at altitude. Easy to pour the individual sachets into my drink reservoir on the run too.

4. Skins Compression Recovery/Travel tights. Vital piece of kit for multi-stage racing or just to aid recovery. Sleep in them, travel in them, not too tight, but enough compression.. helps your legs recover. Essential.

Himalayan 100 Race Day 1

Day 1 - 24 miles 2700m ascent

Maneybhanjang - Sandakphu

Race day dawned. We were up at 4.45am for a 5.30am departure on the bus to the start with a packed breakfast in hand. Although to be fair I was feeling so nauseous, I couldn't really stomach it (and I've never been a fan of cold egg fried rice for breakfast). Excellent nutritional start to the toughest event of my life.

The start of the of the race was in a pretty little town called Maneybhanjang. We were heading 24 miles up to a trekking hut and view point known as Sandakphu - the only place in the World where you can see 4 out of the 5 highest mountains in the World and known as the trekkers paradise. The route up to Sandakphu runs along the border with Nepal and heads into the Singalila National Park. By jeep it takes 5 hours and most trekkers take 3 days. We were running it.. in one day. 

Luckily I hadn't realised the enormity of this before we set off as I think I would have been more petrified than I was. The unknown is always better in my opinion! I'll never forget googling a YouTube video of colectomy surgery the night before I went into theatre.. take a tip from me; never do anything so stupid. The same thing applied here. Better not to know what lay ahead really.

In deep contrast to Darjeeling, Maneybhanjang was a pretty rural town, surrounded by tea plantations. It felt calm and peaceful. We were greeted with another 'Himalayan 100 Welcome Participants' banner strung across the road which marked the start and groups of villagers gathered around to watch us off. The looks on their faces was a mixture of awe and utter confusion - I guess wondering what on earth we were doing and more to the point, why? Still feeling like Royalty we gathered around as Mr Pandey and his staff organised us and got our bags into piles - drop bag for during the race and yet another bag for the finish line. The 'bag logistics' of this trip are mind blowing and yet every single bag turns up at the point it's meant to. Amazing organisation. 

Before the race started we were blessed with a traditional tibetan ceremony where the local children gave us sacred scarves. Very emotional and touching. That scarf would stay with me for the entire trip, tied tightly to my backpack. It felt like it kept me safe and I needed it to keep going. One night I lost it for about 10 seconds and was sent into a panic. I've still got it now back at home and it'll be something I treasure for the rest of my life.

But back to the race. After a bit of chat and a short speech from Mr Pandey we were off. It became very clear immediately that some of the boys (and gorgeous Georgia) intended to race it hard and they shot off into the distance. I on the other hand had a very clear intention to hold back, take things at a very sedate pace and see how I felt. That's my excuse and I'm sticking firmly to it! The initial excitement of being able to run soon came to an abrupt end about 500m down the road, when the track turned and changed into an eye-wateringly steep climb. Everyone resorted to walking, huffing and puffing, with hands on knees. Some people went very quiet, focused on the task in hand, others were chatting and cracking jokes (that would be me). A few calculations and I quickly worked out it would be like this for the next 6-7 hours. Right then. The track was rocky and very uneven and didn't make for easy running at all. It was also fairly foggy, so we didn't have great views either. Mmm it was going to be a long day.

Quite quickly I found that I'd hit the same pace as South African Simon - who was travelling the World with Gareth and just slipped this race into part of his trip - and we hooked up and got chatting. Luckily he was as 'chatty' as I was and we soon took our minds off the pain sharing our life history, discussing the implications of his beard (he'd been growing  beard for 6 months and looked like Tom Hanks in Castaway, but a little more groomed!) and putting the World to rights. Every now and then the fog cleared and we were treated to stunning views of the plantations and the valley below.  I was feeling really strong and just kept pushing on as the track climbed higher and higher.  


It was a strangely emotional day. I thought of my Dad quite a lot - he died back in 2005 - and wondered what he'd think of me doing this. No doubt he'd think it was a great idea and just wished he'd been able to come along too.  

After the hustle and bustle of Delhi and Darjeeling, it was fabulous to be surrounded by simplicity, peace and tranquility. Crickets chirping in the forest as we ran through was pretty much the only noise. The scent of the pine trees was uplifting. It was quite a meditative day and back at base camp in the evening, the others admitted to feeling the same. 

The track crept upwards and onwards and we ran through little villages and past a tiny temple perched on the side of the hill. The people who lived in the tiny shacks on the hillside here so pleased to see us and always with a greeting of 'Namaska' as we ran. They lead such a simple life and have nothing, yet seem at peace with the World. 

There was a lovely section of flat and downhill but then suddenly things started to feel much harder and we realised we were getting up into altitude. The route finished at 3600m and from around 2900m, things started getting more challenging. Not only was the track even more steep and rocky at this point, but the lack of oxygen in the air meant that breathing was harder and I started with a bit of a headache and feeling nauseous (which would be a feature for the next 3 days).  Then suddenly we heard shouting and cheering and realised we'd reached Sandakphu. One of the lovely aspects of the race is that Mr Pandey and his sidekick Mansi, hold out the finish tape for each runner every single day, so you get to 'break the tape' at the end of each stage. Even the very last runner gets the same treatment. A very small, yet important, touch which makes this race so special. Some of the others - Colorado Pat and gorgeous Georgia - who'd been back a while, came out to cheer us in which was lovely, especially since it was so cold and they were exhausted.

I was surprised at how strong I'd felt and although hadn't broken any records, was pretty pleased with my performance. To put it into context. Ben Nevis - the UK's highest mountain - is around 1300m high. We had ascended 2700m over 24 miles, completing a stage that trekkers to the area normally take 2-3 days to do - in just over 6 and a half hours. I should say I'd feel pleased with that! And dare I say it, had found it easier than I'd thought. Although probably not as easy as Gabriel who'd finished first almost 90 minutes ahead of us, followed closely by Georgia (yay one for the girls!) and then Pat and South African David.

Gathering with the other runners afterwards it was clear that everyone had had mixed days. Some had pushed it hard and found it really tough. Others were shocked at the brutality of the climb and trail. Some were on a high - me included! (well I'd survived, it was cause for celebration!) and others were in tears. There was a feeling of 'coming together' and that we were becoming a family. The raw emotion was evident on everyone's faces and it was a night I'll never forget. We were soon treated to hot soup and a delicious meal cooked by Mr Pandeys' team in one of the lodges and we all started to warm up and recover. 

To say the lodges were basic was an understatement, but they were functional and although freezing cold at night, we were safe and under cover. True to their promise our bags were on our beds and we could unpack, get warm clothes on (no showers though.. ick) and get organised. I'm proud to say that I even managed some foam rolling and trigger ball work that night (accompanied by a couple of mice running around on the floor). See, I practise what I preach! I was determined to do everything in my power to keep my body in one piece.

Bed at 8.30pm.. although not many of us slept due to the altitude (think pounding heart rate, nausea and breathlessness) with thoughts of what lay ahead tomorrow. Not to mention the promise of the views of Mt Everest at first light (cue spine tingling). I'd felt strong today, but tomorrow was another day and anything could happen...

TOP PRODUCT PICKS:

Each day I'll pick out 3 items of kit or products that saved the day. Today was:

1. Apres Hot Chocolate Recovery Drink - Amazing post run to help recover, replenish electrolytes, carbs and protein and warm up

2. Bamboo Base Layer from BAM - Soft, warm and gorgeous to sleep or run in. Kept me warm at night.

3. My trusty Brooks Cascadia Trail Shoes - 3 other runners were wearing them too. Perfect for the distance and the trail. Brilliant!

Himalayan 100... pre-race and Darjeeling

I first heard about the Himalayan 100 about 10 years ago when friend and fellow journo Sam Murphy took part. I remember thinking at the time 'One day I HAVE to do that!'. Since then I've known lots of other friends and writers go and take part and it sounded utterly amazing. 

But before the event, I was really worried. There have been a handful of real stand out events in my life. The ones that still make the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. Helvellyn Triathlon, the Lakeland 50 and the Jungfrau marathon.. all of which were epically tough, stunningly beautiful and are etched on my memory forever. Would the Himalayan 100 compare? would it be as amazing as everyone said? I'd read a couple of blogs that were less than complimentary, including one by last year's winner Martin Cox, which was decidedly odd. What was I letting myself in for? I couldn't bear going all that way for it to be a disappointment, or worse not to finish the damn thing. Was there something they knew that I didn't?

Well.. let me tell you. There simply are not words to describe this event. Epic, stunning, amazing, brutal, beautiful.. all the usual superlatives.. just don't come close (and not even 'stupendously beautiful!' Adam Rose..) .  The whole event, the culture, the views, the route, the other runners and the whole incredible experience was simply mind blowing and it's something I'm still taking time to process

Mr Pandey - the infamous Race Director - has even described it as 'life changing'... well that's one I'd agree with. Friends and family ask me what it was like and I can just about manage a stammer of 'Oh amazing... yep just amazing'.. because I can't put it into words yet. Hopefully I'll manage it better here.

I'm splitting this blog into sections.. this one is about the pre-race build up and trip to Darjeeling. Following blogs will cover each day of the race separately.. 

Getting there

We flew from Heathrow to Delhi for the first part of the trip. I got to meet and travel with the fascinating and hugely experienced photo-journalist/adventure racer/South African super Dad, Adam Rose, who was covering the race for Sleep Monsters website. He muttered a lot about how he wasn't fit and how he wasn't going to 'race' but 'might take part in a stage or two'.. um.. he looked a lot fitter than me! did he know something I didn't? Adam had completed the Lakeland 100 last year yet still didn't feel fit enough to do this? errrmm
.... what was I thinking!??!  Anyway.. we chatted away on the flight and discussed our previous race experiences - his being far more exciting than mine. He was also carrying a bulb of garlic with him. Apparently if you eat it raw it kills off bacteria and would prevent him from getting sick. I was relying on coke. Which I don't think impressed him. Either way, neither of us did get sick, so maybe a garlic/coke combo is the way forwards?  

After an overnight flight, we arrived in Delhi. If you've never been, it is everything you might imagine, Hot, smelly and utterly chaotic. Beeping horns, entire families (complete with a couple of chickens) perched on mopeds, people walking down the middle of the road oblivious to the traffic. Glimpses of stunning Colonial architecture mixed up with deprivation and poverty of the poor living in metal sheds on the side of the road. Delhi is an assault on the senses, a contradiction of wealth and poverty, yet intriguing and fascinating. But just an overnight stop, less than 24 hours later we were on our way to the airport again and out to Bagdogra in North East India ready to head up into the foot hills of the Himalayas. 

Pre-Race

After a 2 hour flight, we arrived in Bagdogra airport. It was like taking a step back in time. Dusty, dirty and swarming with people shouting; horns beeping outside (which would become a feature of the trip!) and more chaos.  A group of nervous looking runners gathered and we were hurded like sheep onto an rather battered old metal bus 'Hurry hurry.. go to the toilet, we have 3 hours on the bus. We're going up into the mountains'. 

The long bumpy bus ride was a great way to get to know some of the other runners. By now I was even more worried.. they all seemed far more experienced and far fitter than me. 'Oh yes I've done a few ultras and stage runs and that thing in the Desert', did nothing to fill me with confidence. Ok I've done my fair share of tough races, but nothing on this scale and not for a long time. Oh and of course not forgetting that was all before having 5 abdominal surgeries and the addition of a ileostomy bag into my life.  

Anyway, I wasn't holding their superior fitness against them.. much. Everyone seemed lovely and it was great getting to know them and share our fears and experiences. I'd gone on this trip on my own and already I was making some fantastic new friends.  

What was so brilliant about this entire trip was the people. I loved the way a group of runners from all over the World were thrown together with one common goal. A race like this breaks you down and bares your soul. It doesn't matter if you're rich, poor, educated or not. It doesn't matter what your background is or where you're from. When you strap on your running shoes and step foot into an event like this; nothing else matters. We're all in it together, with one shared goal and one shared life changing experience. The support, human spirit, camaraderie and friendship from my fellow runners is my outstanding memory from the trip and something I'll never forget.

The event seemed to attract an eclectic mix of people from all corners of the World all with different personal reasons for taking part. There is certainly no one 'Himalayan 100 type'. 

There were 35 runners in total. Normally there are more, but numbers were limited this year due to a accommodation being limited at Sandakphu (one of the sherpa huts had burned down). There were also a few walkers - mostly partners of runners, and some journalists who weren't running.  

I can't mention everyone, but just to give you an example of the diversity, there was Richard - 61 years old and a fellow Geordie and dairy farmer now from Scotland - who I actually ended up running most of the race with. Bryony - another journo from Runners World in South Africa. Gareth and Simon, also South Africans who were slipping the race into their World travelling/mid life crisis. David also from South Africa, who had suffered a devastating back injury only 2 years ago and who ended up coming 2nd.. amazing. Karen - a 60 year old nursery teacher from New Zealand, probably the most determined runner in the event. Zoe - a fellow former rower - from Bristol who became a great running buddy and we ended up finishing together. There were a lot of Americans including David who had once completed Comrades in an amazing 7 hours something.. although he modestly pointed out it was a 'long time ago' and Pat from Colorado - who definitely had the edge when it came to altitude although I'm still not sure how he managed it in a pair of vibrams that looked like they'd seen better days - seriously hardcore. Then there was Sonja from Germany - modest and incredibly strong who ended up winning the ladies race and Toni who was suffering from Bronchitis from day one, but never stopped smiling. Gabriel also from Germany won the men's race, who was like a mountain goat - living and training in the Alps helped!

Whilst the race is very International, it doesn't attract many Indians, but this year there was Saahil who was from Mumbai. It took me a few days to discover he was a Hollywood actor. Look out for his movie next year which is apparently called Basmati Blues (random but true!). Then there was Chris - a lawyer from Japan, originally from Wales  - seemed to be very experienced and had done events like this all over the World. Juan from El Salvador, who turned out to be a bit of a celebrity back in his hometown. Running isn't big in El Salvador yet, but Juan is paving the way and providing inspiration with his exploits around the World. Then there was gorgeous Georgia from Bath who had run a 2:50 marathon. Christ!  And finally not forgetting 'extreme athlete' Stefan Schlett, now on his 5th Himalayan 100. Turned out Stefan was the craziest amongst us. A deca ironman finisher, multiple world record holder and some ridiculous 3000km non-stop run from Lisbon to Moscow, amongst too many other events to even begin to mention. Inspirational and utterly bonkers. 

If I wasn't feeling inadequate before the trip, I certainly was now!

Bus trip over and we arrived in Mirik - a small town in the foothills of the Himalayas. Surrounded by tea plantations and very pretty. We arrived to a welcome banner 'Welcome participants of the Himalayan 100' hung at the hotel (ha what me?!? ) and a personal welcome from Mr Pandey. Feeling like Royalty, we jumped off the bus and checked in.  

At the race briefing that night everyone was very quiet. Suddenly it was a reality. We were here and there was no backing out. After a LONG discussion about bags (remember the bag flow chart in the 57 page race booklet?!), transport and organisation issues, we all signed in and collected our race numbers. 

The race doctor pulled me to one side 'We need to talk' he said. Obviously he'd seen my medical notes. He then proceeded to give me the third degree about my surgery, my stoma, how I manage it, whether I thought I'd need IV and then gave me a lecture on how I wasn't to push myself or race. He said if anything happened they would have to take me by jeep to hospital which could take days.. (!) No air rescue here. Up until now I'd just thought my biggest issue might be getting a bit dehydrated, but now I was getting worried. What else could go wrong?! was he expecting something terrible to happen did he know something I didn't? Did he think there might be a problem with the altitude? Suddenly I wasn't feeling very brave anymore. I felt irresponsible and a bit scared. 

But we still had 2 days before the race started and a sightseeing trip to Darjeeling first. So I put my worries to one side.. plenty of time to fret yet!. Following words from the Dr however, I did up my use of alcohol hand gel (to every 10 seconds!) and started drinking even more copious amounts of electrolytes.. 

Darjeeling

An early start and we were back onto our beaten up bus and off to Darjeeling for the day, via a quick stop for photographs of the stunning early morning beauty of Kanchenjunga - the 3rd highest mountain in the World.

I'm not sure why I expected it - lack of research perhaps - but I thought Darjeeling would be fields of pretty tea plantations. I did not expect to find the Indian equivalent of Manchester perched on a hill overlooked by the majestic Kanchenjunga.  I can categorically say that Darjeeling is the craziest, dirtiest and most diverse, utterly bonkers place I've ever been.  It is like something from a movie. Cows and chickens mix with school children walking to school amongst dirty street vendors, selling anything from Indian spices, raw meat and Chelsea baseball caps. It's like Delhi but noisier (more beeping horns), dirtier and more rustic. The Toy Train runs along side the road on a set of tracks where people walk and cows wander all mixed up. There is no health and safety here. It's every man, woman, child and cow for themselves.  

A short trip into the mountaineering museum provided relief and fascinating entertainment. Sadly no photography allowed inside - probably to protect the historical climbing equipment and clothing. Exhibitions showing the various ascents of Mt Everest and other mountains in the area were really interesting. Clothing and equipment used by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary was incredible.. how did they do it with such heavy boots and oxygen masks? their sleeping bags didn't look very warm either and it makes you realise just what an epic achievement it was back then.   

The Darjeeling zoo was pretty grim - although I did get to see my only Red Panda of the trip - and the Toy Train.. well more dust, dirt and noise, but certainly an experience - someone said it's the highest working train in the World?  A spot of shopping, a great lunch, a quick trip to the Gurkha memorial and back to Mirik for more bag packing and serious amounts of fretting.  

Tomorrow the race would start.. definitely no backing out now.